Day 9: To the North, to the North

Today is the day we leave the houseboat and head to Edinburgh. After yesterday’s Suffering my trials and tribulations were set to continue as I awoke with a very sore right big toe. This is odd because the toe that usually gives me grief is the left big toe.

My right big toe

Undeterred I decided that I would run on the basis that it would either fix it or not. As it turned out it didn’t. I ran eastwards today and went as far as Barnes Bridge. This was a fascinating run. The first kilometre or so was past houses that would date, I think, from the latter part of the 18^th century. These enjoy spectacular views of the river and are doubtless mind-bendingly expensive.

Some houses in Kew at the river's edge

I trotted under Chiswick Bridge which was being refurbished. This bridge was built of reinforced concrete in 1933 but is clad with decorative stones which had been removed and were lying in heaps.

Chiswick Bridge

I ran past Putney Rowing Club which must be particularly well-endowed. There was a pristine clubhouse with newly a newly laid area in front of it and steps down to the water that were perfect in every respect (except for perhaps being rather steep). There were a couple of old warehouses, one converted to apartments the other waiting, and the path turned to cobblestones which would have been there well over 100 years. There was also at Putney a fine set of mansions dated at 1908 of the type that Bertie Wooster would have lived in with Jeeves. I could see Aunt Dahlia climbing the steps.

Bertie Wooster (left) as depicted on the cover of Carry On, Jeeves (First edition)

We breakfasted again on the prow of the boat and packed our bags. Packing bags while on holiday is an interesting experience. Why is it that dirty clothes take up more space than clean ones? Why is it that you can never pack things quite as perfectly s you did when you left. These are among the great mysteries of the universe and may never be solved. Kew Garden Cars had assured us that a departure time of 0945 was adequate for the 1100 from Kings Cross. They were right – but only by a whisker!!

Our driver, fine fellow though he may have been, decided that rather than heading immediately north over Kew Bridge he would go south and then east to Chiswick. This seemed like a sensible idea. It took us past Mortlake Cemetry. This seemed to be vast – tombstones stretching forever. I note from the Hammersmith and Fulham council site that there are no fewer than four cemeteries available in the area of which Mortlake is not the largest.

Mortlake Cemetry

We drove past a few National Tryst signs. There are buildings and sites of interest everywhere in this country and especially in London. I noticed especially Chiswick House (completed in 1729 and said to be the finest remaining example of Neo-Palladian architecture in London, the house was designed by Lord Burlington Perhaps of “I’m Burlington Bertie, I rise at eight thirty” fame) and Hogarth House (former country home of the 18th century English artist William Hogarth).

Chiswick House

Hogarth House

We crossed the river by the very Chiswick Bridge that I had run under earlier in the morning and pretty soon we were in familiar territory. That is familiar to me of course!! We wove round and through Shepherds Bush and on to the A40. This road takes one straight into London. There was a queue on this road. You can never tell whether a choice you made is good until you can compare the result of that choice with another one but our driver decided to swing off over Westbourne Bridge.  This is a sad looking iron railway bridge built in 1909.

Westbourne Bridge - I do not know where the traffic has gone!!

It leads to Westbourne Terrace which sports a wonderful façade of late 18^th century townhouses. These all seem to be converted into flats which sell for several million each. Our driver was thwarted in his attempt to circumvent the traffic problems by this route. In turning round we went through the forecourt of one of the terraces and we passed what looked like a barn find Aston Martin DB2. It was faded burgundy colour with a patina derived from years in the English weather. I wonder whose it is.

Westbourne Terrace - somewhere in here is a DB2 no one wants

By now we’re getting worried and our interest in our surroundings has turned to concern that we might miss our train. The driver deposited us at Kings Cross at 1052. It is years since I was in Kings Cross so we had no idea where to go … Platform 5 said the sign. How do we get in? We found a man who let us through the gate and no sooner had I stowed the bags than we pulled out. There was an announcement to say that most of the staff for the train had failed to make it so there must have been some humungous snarl up in Central London and we were lucky!!

We were just in time for this bad boy

The train is a joy. It’s 3½ hours and stops at York, Darlington and Berwick upon Tweed. 

Relaxing on the train

You’re never quite sure whether Berwick is in England or Scotland as it has changed hands so many times (actually it’s been English since 1482 but for the English that’s pretty recent). I have never been (well except for today which doesn't count). They fed us sandwiches and plied us with drinks on the train. I wrote my blog. The G did e-mail. All very civilised!! And we pulled into Edinburgh Waverly on time.

The windows of the carriage were festooned with these signs. I think that The G may have missed them 

Our AirBnB place is really good and is situated up 60 spiral stairs (!!) in an old building that was originally built to house the workers from a local factory. We checked in and (as the Americans say) oriented ourselves before sallying forth into Edinburgh.

Inside the apartment - that loo is in the tiniest space imaginable. Large posteriors need not apply!!

The view from the window over the roof tops

I was keen to acquire a “Yes” badge that I could wear for selected purposes on our return home. On an assessment of the numbers of “Yes” posters compared with “No” posters in windows and a comparison of lapel badges I would say that the ayes have it.

A building with a "Yes" poster in a window

We found a “Yes” campaign station and we managed to get photographed with them! One of the ladies came rushing up behind as we moved on. “Australian people! Australian people!” we heard a voice call. She wanted us to email the photograph!!

We are the Yes People

I had forgotten (it is over 20 years since I was in Edinburgh) how imposing is the architecture. So here are a few shots.

A terrace

Another terrace

Yet another terrace

Is there no end to these terraces? Mercifully, yes.

Conkers anyone?

We also found a bottle shop (as we decided we would eat in tonight) that was selling one of our favourite wines, namely Battle of Bosworth. They are in the McLaren Vale and we have met the wine maker. We served their Shiraz at the Imperial 63^rd Birthday Party.

Cornelius (holding a bottle of Battle of Bosworth) and his bottle shop. What a fine fellow!

Tomorrow we take a canal trip.