Day 17 - Over the land (and some) sea to Skye

Today we pack up (again!!) and depart Oban in our way to Skye. Skye is the largest of the and most northerly large island in the Inner Hebrides. The population is about 10,000 and it has been inhabited since Mesolithic times (let’s say since 10,000BC). It has been ruled by the Vikings. It was dominated by the Clans MacLeod and MacDonald during the most critical (recent) period of Scottish history. These were the notorious “clearances” that led to the depopulation and clearing of areas of Scotland.

Early morning view from our bedroom window in Oban

Our bags are packed, we're ready to leave!!

The clearances came about following the abdication of James II. James II was a Catholic (or suspected to be) which did not go down well with many of his subjects. He was also thought to be pro-French and had some weird views on the absolute power of monarchs. While he pressed for religious freedom for some he did not apply this flexibility to all – notably the Scottish Presbyterians. Eventually he was forced to flee and, therefore, deemed to have abdicated. His Protestant elder daughter, Mary II, and her husband, William III, replaced him.

Roughly speaking, the clearances were part of William III’s plans to bring the Scots into line. They were supporters of James II (who, of course, was also James VII of Scotland; the Act of Union not yet having happened). Previously (before say 1680) land had been acquired and held by the Clans and by the sword (though reciprocal obligations between the population and their leaders were well-recognised). Sheep farming was introduced and the concept of land ownership introduced. People, in general, were in the way so they were driven from their lands. The forests were cleared. All dreadful stuff in retrospect and there were not a few atrocities committed (probabkly by both sides) the most notable of which was the Massacre of Glencoe (1692). We are to pass through Glencoe.

We were due to stop at Fort William for lunch before heading on to Mallaig for the ferry to Armadale in Skye.

The road out of Oban is as scenic as any route and winds along the eastern bank of Loch Linhe. As ever with Scotland the place is thick with castles the first of note (that we passed) being Dunstaffnage Castle which is partially ruined a castle dating back to the 13th century, making it one of Scotland's oldest stone castles.

Sue, our guide, turns out to be a Master Story Teller. Some of them are true, many of them are her own which she tells in a most engaging way with that lovely accent. She regaled us with a story of the Stone of Destiny (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_of_Scone) which is also the subject of a 2008 film written and directed by Charles Martin Smith and starring Charlie Cox.

Sue Caledonia, rabbi's Tour Guide, Master Story Teller and Arch-eccentric. A really beautiful person

We stopped at Castle Stalker (http://www.castlestalker.com/wp/about/) set on a tidal islet on Loch Laich (Duck Loch), an inlet off Loch Linnhe. We could see Mull in the background and Lismore in the foreground.

Castle Stalker

We then headed off up the Appin Way (known colloquially as the A828!) to Glenco. All the way up this road we could see across Loch Linnhe to the hills on the other side. It’s very beautiful but there seems to be an awful lot of it.

We stopped briefly at the Highland Titles Nature Reserve in Glencoe Wood (http://www.highlandtitles.com/the-highland-titles-nature-reserve/about-glencoe-wood/). You can buy chunks of this land (from about 3 square meter blocks). The result of this appears to be that the land is then effectively protected fron development because there are so many owners. If you buy a bit then you become a Laird (or, of course, a Lady). There is evidence of much Australian interest!!

A couple of Southern Crosses beneath a sign

Another example of Australian interest in the woods

Who has put this gnome in this tree? We shall liberate him!!

A view of Loch Linnhe

We reached Glencoe which is a huge valley surrounded by (what else?) big hills. Glen is Gallic for valley. Glencoe is the scene of the famous massacre. The basis for this massacre was the failure of the Clan MacDonald to sign the oath of allegiance to William III and Mary II. In fact the oath had been signed (though late). The infamous Campbells abused the hospitality of the MacDonalds for several days before turning on them and killing 38. Some hundreds fled into the hills – inadequately clad – in the depths of winter and died of exposure.

We were told by both Jamie and Sue that one should “never trust a Campbell”!! There is a pub further on where there is (we were told) a sign that says “Hikers welcome. Please leave your boots at the door. No Campbells”.

Glencoe

At the head of the valley, across from a set of hills called the Three Sisters, there was a piper in full highland dress.

Sue and the piper at Glencoe

View up Glencoe from Achnambeitach

Glencoe again

Achnambeitach at the foot of Glencoe

As we drove on we entered country known (but unwittingly) to millions around the world. It is the countryside where Harry Potter was filmed. We passed the spot where Hagrid's cottage was constructed (there’s no sign of it now). We stopped at Glencoe the village where there's a memorial which we didn't look at. Instead we ambled down the high street. It was not particularly interesting.

Coming out of Glencoe we passed Loch Leven to the east of us. This connects with Loch Linnhe. We were due to lunch at Fort William.

Fort William is awful. I cannot say anything else. As soon as a town gets a shopping mall it is done for. Clearly the finest sight you can see in Fort William is the road to the Isles. That’s what we took – and not before time!! Dreadful.

I was glad to be on the road to the Isles. You head west from Fort William along the northern bank of Loch Eil (which is really an extension of Loch Linnhe). We were headed for a stop at Glenfinnan which aside from being a pretty spot is also home to the railway viaduct used in the Harry Potter movies. We passed through Kilmallie which has an obelisk and a ruined church about which I can find nothing.

Glenfinnan has some fine views. We climbed to the top of a hill to a vantage point to see the famous viaduct. Turning round 180° you see that Glennfinnan stands at the northern end of Loch Shiel and there is a good view down the glen over the narrow but long loch.

The famous Harry Potter railway viaduct

The view in the other direction looking down Loch Shiel

We gathered a train was due and while it would have been great to see it running across the viaduct we were too far away. We climbed in the bus and drove off and caught the steam train further up the road. There are three steam engines operated by the West Highland Railways (www.scotrail.co.uk/discover_whl) – I think the one we saw was the LNER Gresley Class K4 2-6-0 No. 61994 "The Great Marquess" designed specially for the route in the 1930s.

I tried to photograph the train but I failed - it is in this picture but you probably cannot make it out!!

This is what I might like to have seen (and photographed)

Further on there is another loch – this one is land-locked and is called Loch Eilt. This has been used in a number of films including Local Hero, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

Then we were on to Loch nan Uamh where we stopped. This was the loch at which Bonnie Prince Charlie is thought to have arrived to foment his unsuccessful rebellion in 1745. He is thought also to have left from here in April 1746 following the rebels’ defeat at the Battle of Culloden.

A view across Loch nan Uamh

We arrived at Mallaig which is where the ferry departs, I had been here about 40 years ago but I can remember nothing. The scenery on Skye is sort of familiar but I can recollect no landmark. I know we camped but apart from that I cannot remember!!

Left to right: The G, the Dortmunder and the Lone Australian at the Mallaig ferry terminal

It’s a short drive on Skye from Arnadale to Portree. Arnadale is home to the Clan MacDonald and there is a Clan Donald visitor centre (www.clandonald.com) nearby. Any place in Scotland worth its salt has a castle and Arnadale’s is ruined and is fairly recent dating from 1790.

We also passed the Gallic College (Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, www.smo.uhi.ac.uk/en/) whose aim is the preservation of Gallic culture and language.

We arrived at Portree at about 6pm and having unloaded our stuff met the Dortmunder and the Lone Australian and dined very satisfactorily at the Bosville Hotel (www.bosvillehotel.co.uk). The G and I walked back through a light Skye drizzle to our accommodation.

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