Day 13 – Whisky a go go

I write this entry with the benefits of some of the finest whisky that the world has to offer. I say this to excuse myself up front from any strange or inappropriate expressions or opinions.

We slept well in the biggest bed known to man and awoke refreshed with the prospect of a day touring the distilleries of the Isle of Islay. We breakfasted with our co-habitees – the Canadians and the lone Australian – and we were front and centre outside waiting for Jamie at 0915 as directed. I have to say that this is the first time that I have had whisky for breakfast but we’re on holiday; we don’t need to drive or look after small children or operate dangerous machinery so what the hell?

Islay

We set off first for Kilchoman Distillery (kilchomandistillery.com) which is the first distillery to be built on the island for 125 years. It was built in 2005 and the problem with whisky is that – to be called – whisky – it must be at least three years old. The really tasty whiskies – of which we had a few later in the day – are much older than that. So starting a distillery is a long-term thing. However, it is 9 years since 2005 so there were whiskies to be tasted.

We stopped on the way at a beach just to soak in the views. The views are spectacular. Every view is a combination of water and moorland. The weather is gorgeous – perfect September weather – so with the blue of the sky everything sparkles. For some peculiar reason there was a fenced-off seat at the edge of the beach and I reproduce a couple of photos below – as well as a picture of the view. The trouble with taking pictures that – because I am not a good photographer – I cannot always see the same picture in my photographs as I can see in my memory.

The beach we stopped at on the way to Kilchoman Distillery

Jamie ... possibly the best tour guide in the known universe. Note that the seat says "Jamie"

The Vikings take a break from their invasion of the British Isles

The aim of the Kilchoman Distillery is to make whisky whose sources are 100% from Islay. In this apparently they are unique and what is more they feed the waste to the cattle on the farm. Quite what this does to the cattle or to the beef that they produce I was unable to discover. We had, I have to say, an extremely attractive guide (called Leone) who – as a weapon of marketing – was certainly an inspired hire for the distillery.

Leone: Kilchoman's marketing department's secret weapon

We were shown the process of making whisky which I will not go into here. The interesting thing with any process like this – bread-making is another – is that you wonder how people in the olden days ever discovered how to do it. It must be completely coincidental, not only that you do it once but also that you can repeat it!!

The Malting Room - the floor is covered with barley that is drying out

The G samples some peat

A still - that copper is so beautiful. I wonder how they keep it clean 

Ah-hah!! Brasso!!

No computer nonsense here - just don't wipe the board or the month's production numbers will be lost!!

After the the tender ministrations of Leone we repaired to a tasting. We first tasted the 100% Islay. We were told that “all parts of the production process for 100% Islay have taken place at the distillery – from barley to bottle. The barley is grown, malted, distilled, matured and bottled at Kilchoman making for a unique character. Bottled at 50% alcohol by volume and peated to a lower level to that of other releases, 100% Islay has a lighter, fresher feel to it. Citrus and lemon notes come through with soft peat smoke and a long smooth finish”. Whatever!! We had a glass and later bought a bottle to bring home!!

Stuff that happens in the whisky-making process

Machir Bay - the amber nectar (actually we preferred the 100% Islay)

I'm in the club!! And it's a "yes" - for something but not yet for Scotland

We then had a glass of Machir Bay which is Kilchoman’s “core expression”. I learned today that the different whiskies and varieties of whisky are called “expressions”. As you taste these “expressions” you realise how apt a word it is. It’s no different than with wine I guess but the notes with whisky are a good deal more pronounced than with wine. Islay is made of peat and the degree to which the whisky is peated will distinguish it from other varieties. There are other notes in the nose and on the palate once you start looking for them. Floral, citrus, chocolate – just as with wine they are all there!

The view from outside the distillery

We took our glass of Machir Bay whisky down to Machir Beach (the glass is ours to keep) and we drank it there. We paddled in the sea and – again – admired the view. We then headed back to the shop where we made a few select purchases.

On our way to Machir beach The G spotted this beast of the field

Machir beach itself - I took a paddle and very nice it was too

We went back to Kilchoman for lunch. I had some Cullen Skink. The Scots do manage to choose some very strange names for things. Cullen skink is a thick Scottish soup made of smoked haddock, potatoes and onions. An authentic Cullen skink will use finnan haddie, but it may be prepared with any other undyed smoked haddock. I know neither what is “finnian haddie” or whether our Cullen Skink was authentic but it very tasty. I see from Dr Google that the UK Guardian tells us how to cook the perfect Cullen Skink at theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2012/jan/05/how-to-cook-perfect-cullen-skink. I have to say that I thought a “skink” was a type of animal.

We headed after lunch to Bruichladdich (www.bruichladdich.com) which is a distillery that creates unusual and multitudinous expressions – literally hundreds. Its website describes them as “progressive Hebridean distillers”. We didn’t do a tour but we did sample some of the products – including a gin that they make!! Readers will appreciate that by now we had had rather more to drink than most people – it was about 1400. Of course, the Vikings were making the most of it – I expect they drink at breakfast everyday. It was amusing when we met this morning to find that they had also had a wee dram for breakfast – so we did not feel quite so decadent!! I bought a T-shirt from Bruichladdich.

Living proof that we made it to BruichLaddich 

Becky of BruichLaddich serving up the good stuff

The G was captivated by these flowers, I cannot think why

We then headed off to out third – and mercifully final – distillery of the day: the Bowmore distillery (www.bowmore.com). Bowmore is where we are staying and indeed the distillery is right outside the bedroom window!! This is a far larger concern than Kilchoman Distillery. They use 1.3 million litres of water a day. So that seems pretty big to me. The basic process is the same as Kilchoman but it’s easier to get it in perspective after seeing the smaller distillery first.

The Malting Room at Bowmore's

The G practising at being a Maltman with a malt barrow

The fire that they use to give the peaty flavour to the whisky

Just remember who is in charge and there will be no trouble!!

A grist bin at Bowmore's 

Some stills - beautiful copper!  These stills are works of art, their shapes almost sensuous

Barrels of the stuff, barrels of it!!

Of course we sampled some of their wares. The highlight of this sampling was a 23 year old Port casked whisky. This was not – as an Australian winery would say – “on tasting”. But for £25 you could have a glass. I agreed to go halves with one of the Vikings and my word we were pleased we did. The nose was remarkable – you could breathe in deeply and almost taste a peaty aroma derived from peat that had grown spring flowers. The taste was incredible – a solid rush of flavour that caught either side of your tongue before it all came together in a serious finish. It was – as you can probably understand – truly magnificent. But at £380 we decided not to buy a bottle. Just as well The G was with me with a restraining hand as on my own I might have done something foolish. It was that good!

Apparently this is US$100,000 a bottle. Bloody ugly bottle if you ask me 

Bowmore's tasting room

The group as a whole decided after the Bowmore trip to sample some of the delights of Bowmore in terms of food. We were to be disappointed … Bowmore’s population is about 800. Tourism on Islay is an important industry but with a housing base to support a permanent population of 800 there is not a lot scope for accommodation nor a lot of capacity for servicing touroids. We could not eat at the Lochside Hotel as they were booked out but we did end up eating – but not, I think, in fine style.

View up the street in Bowmore

Having spent the entire day drinking we decided discretion was the better part of valour and retired early to bed!!